Seney National Wildlife Refuge.

Megan Noble

Created on the remains of a sandy swamp, Seney's 95,000 acres are laced with ponds and drains, a welcome habitat for over 200 species of birds.

For people with an interest in wildlife, the enormous 95,212-acre refuge southwest of Seney, administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, is a magical place. (It's pronounced "SEE-knee.") Here it's easy to get an intimate look at many different species of wildlife inhabiting the north woods. Motorists driving on a special road built on dikes may see or hear bald eagles, trumpeter swans, and loons in their natural habitats. Other commonly seen species include snapping turtles, sandhill cranes, beaver, dragonflies, songbirds, ring-necked ducks, osprey, frogs, and American bittern. Mountain bikers use the nearly 60 miles of mostly flat back-country roads.

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Signs of elusive wolves and moose who live in the refuge may occasionally be seen in the backcountry. Birders intent on expanding their life lists of rare or uncommon birds sometimes drive thousands of miles to spot the yellow rail or black-backed woodpecker found here.
THE SENEY NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE STORY is told in a well-written display at the visitor center, and in Seney Wildlife Refuge: Its Story, a $13 book, 72 pages, with 100 photos, available at the Visitor Center or by mail.

The refuge is a vast (150 square miles) and peaceful wetland between Munising and Seney. It drains into the Manistique River. From 1881 to 1900 the area was logged off. Fires swept many cutover lands, including the Great Manistique Swamp, which is partly in the refuge. A decade later, land speculators started to drain the land to develop it for farming. They failed—and left. Most of the land reverted to the government for nonpayment of taxes during the Depression.

In 1935, an intricate system of dikes and spillways created thousands of acres of open pools for waterfowl at the Refuge. The project was accomplished with funds from duck stamp purchases and with labor from the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) and Works Projects Administration (WPA), two famous make-work projects for unemployed young men. They were part of Franklin Delano Roosevelt's plans to help the country get through the Depression.
"CCC crews planted aquatic plants favored by ducks and geese: pondweed, bulrushes, duckweed, wild rice, wild celery, and more," explains the refuge's comprehensive conservation plan. "This [unusual] and biologically complex pool system has been managed in a variety of ways [over the years].

Currently water levels are drawn down or flooded on a rotational basis within the 21 pools, based on specific wildlife objectives and maintenance requirements. In general, pools are kept full in spring and early summer, then lowered during late summer so migrating waterfowl can get to aquatic vegetation more easily, and so shorebirds can have mud flats. During fall and winter, water levels "are maintained to accommodate overwintering of fish species and initial spring runoff."

Lightning-caused fire is a natural part of the refuge's history. It has helped shape the composition and structure of its plant communities, states the conservation plan. Many native plants and animals have adapted to fire, or become dependent on it. At Seney, prescribed fire is used as a tool to maintain open sedge marshes for, for instance, the secretive yellow rail, and to conserve upland fields and early successional forests—for example, for jack pine and aspen.

Seeing and hearing common loons are highlights for many visitors. The refuge has one of North America's most intensively monitored common loon populations, counted annually. Nests are checked for offspring, and the young are banded. In recent years, the Seney refuge has averaged 15 territories with pairs, and produced about 12 chicks each year.

Field observations, along with research and literature reviews, guide refuge staff in their management decisions. Many papers produced in the refuge's long history of research projects are on Seney's website, fws.gov/midwest/seney.

At the northern edge of the Seney National Wildlife Area, along M-28, motorists can see the marshy grasses and water-tolerant conifers of the Great Manistique Swamp. The flat swampland provided a straight, level right of way for the Soo Line, the U.P.’s principal rail line, built with Canadian money to connect Duluth with Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario.

Though wildlife management is the refuge's main purpose, much has been done for visitors. The visitor center and seven-mile Marshland Wildlife Drive have become popular U.P. attractions.

The refuge's back roads and dikes are open to hikers and bicyclists. Fat-tire bikes work best. Nearly 60 miles of roads are open to BIKING and HIKING and are ideally suited for viewing wildlife. Mountain bike rentals are at Northland Outfitters on M-77 at the north side of Germfask. CANOEING during daylight hours is encouraged along the Manistique River.

Teachers, youth leaders, and others needn't even visit Seney in person to take advantage of its diverse online teaching materials. K-8 teaching trunks with hands-on materials on birds, wetlands, and more can be sent for the cost of shipping. See it on the fws.gov/Midwest/seney site along with a downloadable refuge map and bird list, also available at the visitor center. The center, site, and Facebook and Flickr also disseminate the brochures of the refuge, fishing and hunting there, and a calendar of events.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT
It's best to come in the early morning or evening, when birds and mammals are most active. The wildlife drive and trails are open from sunup to sundown. Over 200 species of birds and 45 species of mammals, including the eastern timber wolf, have been recorded here. The outstanding Visitor Center is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. seven days a week from May 15 to October 15. Brochures are available after hours at the display in the Visitor Center parking lot. In the off-season, information is available at the main office next door.
■ VISITOR CENTER. Excellent displays, a knowledgeable staff, and the Seney Natural History Association's small, well-chosen nature bookstore make this a good stop for orientation. Exhibits include an interactive mural in which viewers look for hidden wildlife (kids love this challenge), a wolf diorama and a wolf-coyote comparison, a display on refuge management techniques, tips for wildlife observation, and "The Sounds of Seney" with 32 wildlife sounds. A 15-minute high-definition DVD program orients visitors to Seney.
     In addition, the loon exhibit invites visitors to hear the loon's four main calls while seeing a beautiful diorama of a loon with a chick on its back. A short video shows loons in action. Loons are plentiful in the refuge because it meets their three main requirements: 1) clean water; 2) quiet, undisturbed nesting islands; and 3) a good supply of fish to eat.
     Get information on the nature trail, wildlife drive, and back roads (closed to vehicles). Visitors can borrow binoculars, a bird guide, and a flower guide at no cost. Brochures describe the refuge's policy and opportunities for hunting and fishing. Northern pike, bullheads, and perch offer anglers a challenge. Center is open May 15-October 15, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (906) 586-9851. Free admission. Visitor center and deck are wheelchair-accessible.
■ PINE RIDGE NATURE TRAIL. A 1.4 mile loop with interpretive signs takes visitors along high, dry pine ridges that weave through the pool system. Panels show how wildlife uses plants along the trail. It's an easy walk, but there are some low hills and uneven ground. A boardwalk traverses a marshy area that's excellent for viewing songbirds. Spring and summer wildflowers are abundant. This is a peaceful experience except for nearby road noise. The trail begins at the visitor center. Parking at the visitor center and nature trail may plowed through late March. Call to confirm. Handicap accessible: no.
■ MARSHLAND WILDLIFE DRIVE. This 7-mile self-guided auto tour on a one-way gravel road connects 3 observation decks in habitats where trumpeter swans, loons, osprey, and bald eagles can sometimes be seen. Deer, beaver, turtles, waterfowl, and wading birds are plentiful. Spotting scopes are provided at each observation deck, free of charge. Binoculars can be borrowed at the visitor center. Interpretive signs are quite informative. The fishing loop adds 1 ˝ˇ more miles and one fishing platform to the drive. The speed limit is 15 mph. Narrow clearances and car traffic here make it more enjoyable for bicyclists to use back roads instead. Back roads go through more varied habitat, so visitors are more apt to see different things. The Wildlife Drive starts near the visitor center and ends on M-77, just south of the main refuge entrance. It's open from May 15 through October 15, daylight hours only, unless wildlife or habitat management issues warrant its closure. Some backcountry areas may also be closed for maintenance, management, or special wildlife issues. Check with the Refuge office. Handicap accessible: decks and scopes are barrier-free.
■ BACKCOUNTRY PATHS along dikes and service roads offer hikers and bicyclists nearly 60 miles of prime wildlife viewing. Intersections are clearly marked so users can easily plot their routes and see where they are on the Refuge map. Surfaces are varied. In most conditions hard-packed gravel and sand work fine for bikes with narrow tires, but mountain bikes would be better, especially after rain.
■ NORTHERN HARDWOODS CROSS-COUNTRY SKI AREA. 9 miles of groomed trails are usually skiable from mid or late December into March. There are some Manistique River views and some old-growth forest. All skill levels. No dogs or motorized vehicles. Trails are normally groomed just before the weekend. Ski rentals are at Northland Outfitters, M-77, north edge of Germfask. Trails start at the Robinson Road parking lot 1/2 mile west of M-77 from intersection 1/3 mile south of the blinking light in Germfask. Trail map downloadable on refuge site: fws.gov/midwest/seney For snow conditions, call (906) 586-9851.
■ SNOWSHOEING is permitted anywhere except on the ski trails. It's never a good idea to snowshoe across pools. Snowshoe rentals at Northland Outfitters, M-77, north edge of Germfask.
■ CANOEING can be done on the refuge's rivers. The Manistique River is the only conveniently reachable stream section that can be canoed during the allotted daylight hours. Canoeing is not allowed on the refuge pools or marshes. Canoe and kayak rentals are at Big Cedar Campground (906-586-6689) on M-77 just south of Germfask and Northland Outfitters (906-586-9801) on the north edge of Germfask On M-77.
There are three popular places to put in: the two canoe liveries on M-77, and the pretty picnic area on M-77 about a mile south of Germfask. (The latter site is very steep.) For visitors with their own canoes or kayaks, each livery offers a spotting service.
     Canoeists end up at the 10-campsite Mead Creek state forest campground on County Road 436 south of the wildlife refuge (see below). NOTE: in summer, the numbers of canoeists may keep wildlife away, notes one frequent user. For best wildlife viewing in summer, get out early in the morning.

Although the Refuge allows no picnic tables, grills, or trash cans in its interior, picnicking is permitted. Bring a blanket, take your trash home with you, and don't light any kind of fire. The Wigwams public-use area on M-77 about a mile north of the entrance road has picnic tables, fishing and wildlife-viewing opportunities, and a new foot trail connecting to the Pine Ridge Nature Trail.

The main entrance to the Refuge is on M-77, 2 miles north of Germfask and 5 miles south of Seney. (906) 586-9851 ext. 15. Between May 15 and October 15: Marshland Wildlife Drive is open between sunrise and sunset. Visitor Center is open 9- 5. Visitor use of the Refuge is limited to daylight hours. In winter, the visitor center parking lot is plowed through late March. The entrance to the ski trails is off the parking lot west of M-77, half a mile south of Germfask. Free admission. Handicap accessible: visitor center, viewing platforms along wildlife drive, indoor & outdoor toilets.

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