PORCUPINE MOUNTAINS STATE PARK

Region: Porcupine Mountains and Ontonagon

It can be chilly even in mid-summer in the Porkies.

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This is one of the country's great old wilderness forests, over 30,000 acres of Sugar Maples, American Basswood, Eastern Hemlock, and Yellow Birch in a climate that encourages tall growth. There are vast stretches of Lake Superior beaches here, dozens of beautiful waterfalls, splendid panoramas. Over 80 miles of hiking trails make it a major backpacking destination.
The hemlock forests are especially memorable here. Dark and mysterious, they are free of underbrush because of the dense canopy, creating scenes like the old-growth rain forests of the West Coast.

jmeissen

Miles of hiking trails lead to many beautiful views.

Sugar maples make for spectacular fall color. Most of the Porcupine Mountains have been spared the catastrophic natural fires that can make some old-growth forests little different in general appearance from logged forests. Windstorms, while common near Lake Superior's shore, are usually relatively mild here. Events like the mighty 1953 blowdown are thought to occur at intervals of 1,200 years or more on a given site.

The park's only long, through road is the 25-mile South Boundary Road, connecting the park's eastern end at Silver City near Ontonagon with the western end at the Presque Isle River, close to Wakefield near Ironwood.

It's an ideal habitat for black bears. 2,000 acres or more are required to support one bear. There are an estimated four dozen or more bears in the park. Campers in all but the most developed campgrounds are required to hang their food from bear poles, or, if in areas without bear poles, from trees. Backpackers carry their food in a stuff sack inside their backpacks.

Dan Urbanski

These old-growth hemlocks are near the Mirror Lake eight-bunk cabin. Like all the Porkies’ rustic cabins, it’s in demand in all four seasons, less so in spring.

Long, high ridges made the interior forests here too inaccessible and too expensive to log. The ridges are remnants of once-towering mountains formed when ancient, hard volcanic basalt was uplifted. The mountains' distinctive shape, seen from distant shorelines, led local Ojibwa to call the area kaugabissing, "the place of the porcupines."

By the 1930s conservationists had recognized the Porcupine Mountains' rarity and value as a wilderness area. To protect them from logging, Michigan created the Porcupine Mountains State Park in 1945. It remains the state's largest park by far.

Hiking trails lead into old-growth forests more extensive than anywhere else east of the Mississippi.

The suspension bridge just inland from Presque Isle River's mouth gives a great view of these striking circles carved by the rushing water.

These trails and forests are the most unusual highlight at Michigan's largest state park. Often trails lead to some of the park's waterfalls, over 30 in all.

The Porcupine Mountains are one of the Midwest's premiere backpacking destinations. To really experience the Porkies, try to plan spending a day, or better yet, at least two days and a night, hiking and camping in the wilderness, away from the busy visitor spots and modern campgrounds.

The essence of the Porcupine Mountains goes beyond seeing the celebrated scenic views. Hiking is the way to experience the heart of the magnificent, old-growth forests.

The park has 16 frontier cabins, one wheelchair-accessible, the others on trails at least a mile from parking. They are arranged so they can be used for a three- or four-day backpack trip. Their popularity means they must be reserved well ahead in peak seasons in summer, fall color season, and ski season.

To experience wilderness solitude, consider coming at off-season times. In mid to late May wildflowers are out. Warblers fly through in mid-May, just when black flies are getting bad. Mid-May through mid-June are generally the worst times for black flies. These nasty pests remain longer when heavy snows cause lots of moisture. A net bug suit would be a good investment for anyone planning to spend time outdoors in spring in many Upper Peninsula locations. In early October most leaves have fallen but some are left ? for a sparer kind of fall color beauty. A snowmobile trail goes across roads in parts of the park, so winter guests at area resorts are a mix of snowmobilers and skiers.

Serious backpackers can plan many different several-day adventures along the Porkies' nearly 100 miles of trails. Trails in this rugged wilderness commonly have steep grades and unbridged stream crossings. For more complicated day trips and for overnights, it's a good idea to have a compass or GPS.

Backcountry camping is permitted anywhere in the park provided it's not within 1/4 mile of a cabin or road. See Porkies Camping section (the column just to the right) for details.

The 25-mile-long park is in a little-developed area. For a detailed Porkies map, visit Porkies and click on "unit map."

The park's visitor center and main facilities are off M-107, about 3 miles west of Silver City and 13 miles west of Ontonagon, where M-64 turns inland from Lake Superior to the mining town of White Pine. Silver City is more a collection of resorts than a conventional town. The two general stores near the park entrance have closed. Gas and a limited range of groceries are available at:
• the Konteka restaurant/motel in White Pine, 7 miles south of the park entrance on M-64.
• Pat's Foods in Ontonagon.

The park's western end and its Presque Isle waterfalls are closer to lodgings in Wakefield, Bessemer, and even Ironwood.

Park headquarters office contact info: phone: (906) 885-5275. Open Mon-Fri 8-4:30. Call or write 33303 Headquarters Rd., Ontonagon, MI 49953. Visitor center off M-107 is open from the weekend before Mem. Day through mid-Oct. Hours: 10-6 Eastern. (906) 885-5206. Park entry fee: $10/year Recreation Psssport for Michigan residents, $8/day, $29 year for others. Wheelchair accessible: Visitor Center, Lake of the Clouds Overlook, Union Bay Campground, Nawadaha Falls. Dogs OK on 6-foot leash in campgrounds, on trails, not in buildings.

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