Hunts' Guide to The Upper Peninsula
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C&H Library/future Keweenaw History Center

C&H Library
U.S. National Park Service

This striking stone building with its façade of contrasting red and gray mine rock was the Calumet & Hecla community library, built in 1898 for the use of mine workers and their families.

Today this key historic building in Calumet is owned by the Keweenaw National Historic Park, whose headquarters is in the former C&H office across the street. It houses the park's paper conservation lab and processing area for its growing collections of papers, C&H blueprints and other documents, and objects relating to C&H and other elements of the multifaceted park. Offices of park interpreters, curators, and historians are here. (Donations of materials about the copper mining story are most welcome, especially diaries and letters revealing everyday life, and even things like a made-in-Japan souvenir of Copper Country mines. Call 906-337-3168.)

Long-range plans call for a Keweenaw History Center, open to the public, possibly housing the Houghton County Genealogical Society.

Meanwhile, in summer the park staff offers tours of this most interesting building, typically on Tuesday or Thursday. Check a sign posted on the door, or call 906-337-3168.

Altruism was far from the only motivation of longtime C&H CEO Alexander Agassiz for erecting this splendid building, which also contained a basement bathhouse for C&H families and a second-floor meeting room. He felt that employees who went to church, stayed home, played in bands, read books, and avoided saloons were easier to control, especially when they rented company houses from which they could be evicted with little notice. Michigan Tech history professor Larry Lankton explored the many sides of corporate paternalism in Cradle to Grave: Life, Work and Death at the Lake Superior Copper Mines, a revealing study for which he read much C&H internal correspondence.

The library was designed by a Boston architect related to the company's principal investor, Quincy Adams Shaw. Reading rooms were on the second floor, including one where men could smoke, with a meeting room on the top floor. All library books were carefully reviewed by C&H president Agassiz and superintendant James MacNaughton to be sure they did not contain material that would support union causes: worker safety, organizing, striking, and related issues. Muckraking authors like Upton Sinclair wouldn't be found here!

The interior remains very much as it must have looked when Calumet and Hecla reigned supreme in these parts. The varnished interior trim has never been painted or refinished. There are classic oak desks and map cases, cases of mineral specimens, and a big oil portrait of Alexander Agassiz, son of the famed Harvard botanist Louis Agassiz. Agassiz would rather have devoted himself entirely to scientific research. He was persuaded to spend part of his time managing Calumet and Hecla, while still living in Boston. He did this for most of his life and served as C&H president from 1871 until his death in 1910. Money from C&H paid for Agassiz's zoological and oceanographic investigations. C&H's Bostonian paternalism was widely resented here as controlling and condescending.

East of the office building is a big piece of float copper - pure copper formed in pockets created by volcanic bubbles. Such pure copper is found along the Keweenaw Fault, but almost nowhere else in the world. Outside is a bronze statue of Agassiz. His cold, analytical gaze follows you unsettlingly as you shift your point of view.
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On Red Jacket Road, just west of U.S. 41 by the turnoff to Calumet. (906) 337-0202. Check sign on door for tour times, or call. Not handicap-accessible.

Return to Calumet

CALUMET
POINTS OF INTEREST
Downtown Calumet. Bustling again, downtown was hopping 24 hours a day when the mining boom was at its zenith, from 1890 to 1913. Today it features Ste. Anne's ethnic museum, lavish historic taverns, plus outstanding shops and galleries: skis, bikes, copper books and gifts, minerals, jewelry, beads, art glass, Ojibwa pottery, beads, and more ... more

Shute's 1890 Bar

Shute's Bar

Next to the Calumet Theatre, this landmark saloon is a friendly and ungentrified local gathering spot that welcomes visitors from down below. Originally it was an Italian saloon, Curto's. Shute's (pronounced SHOOT-eez) is the Croatian surname of Bernie Shute, still an occasional customer, and his father, who ran it for 76 years between them. (The name in Croatian was actually Sutj.) Shute's still has the magnificent original back bar, booths, and all the trappings of boom-town saloons.

Shute's Interior
Crowbert

The bar itself has a splendid stained-glass canopy with vines. Elaborate plaster caryatids frame the raised dance floor. The owner's restoration has won high praise. The long scenic mural of Calumet in the mining days is a 21st-century creation. 322 Sixth, next to the Calumet Theatre. (906) 337-1998. Open daily, noon to closing (2 a.m. or whenever no one's there). Wheelchair access: two steps.
[Get Directions]

Swedetown Ski Trails. One of the most splendid cross-country ski spots in the Midwest has a beautiful setting with a variety of trails ... more

Vertin Gallery. An exceptionally pleasant gallery on the main floor of an old department store features juried works of 130 regional artists ... more

Copper World. One of the U.P.'s most successful gift/visitor/accessories shop has many items of copper and much more Keweenaw-themed things ... more

Coppertown Mining Museum and Gift Shop. Mining aficionados, woodworkers, and those interested in machines, foundries, and labor and Copper Country history won't want to miss this seasonal museum. ... more

Albion Station Glassworks. In an old streetcar station, a glassblower melts recycled bottles to make and sell vases, plates, bowls & carafes ... more

Calumet Theatre and Village Hall. One of the Kewenaw's glories, the elaborate 1899 opera house looks much as it did when touring stars played here in mining days. Authentically restored paintings and ornament. A memorable venue for concerts, films, plays. Tours available. ... more

Ed Gray Gallery. One of the U.P.'s top galleries shows the works of 70 artists ... more

Norwegian Lutheran Church. Norwegian Lutheran Church resembling Old Country architecture, once a wreck, being painstakingly restored. ... more

Calumet's North End. Cheap, often ornate historic storefronts have attracted several original shops: a bookshop/coffee bar, art gallery, dazzling antiques/gems/jewelry store, and the area's best frame shop. ... more

Site of the 1913 Italian Hall Disaster. 73 people, mostly children, died in the stampede that followed when someome yelled "Fire!" in the Italian social hall. It was the 1913 copper strike's defining event, memorialized in song by Woody Guthrie and others, and in story, photos, vivid websites, and a film. ... more

St. Paul the Apostle Church. A magnificentl Catholic church built by Slovenians between 1903 and 1908. Seasonal afternoon tours show off the splendid stained glass, paintings, and altar. ... more

C&H Library/future Keweenaw History Center. Built by the wealthy Calumet & Hecla copper company as a community library, this unusual stone-faced building contains office and work areas of the Keweenaw National Historic Park. Some day it will house the Keweenaw History Center. ... more

Keweenaw Convention and Visitors Bureau. Free tourism and history handouts and knowledgeable advice. Booklet and website include all Keweenaw parks and natural areas. A highly recommended stop for anyone spending time in the area. ... more

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