Downtown Bessemer

Looking at downtown Bessemer on South Sophie Street, which ends at the distinctive city hall.

The well-planned downtown, two blocks long, marches up the hill on Sophie Street from the railroad tracks and the Dairy Queen to a high point capped by the handsome, beautifully detailed Tudor-style BESSEMER CITY HALL and COMMUNITY BUILDING. A WPA project from 1934, it includes a library and auditorium in addition to a firehouse and city offices. Exhibits document its construction as a Depression-era make-work project. They show off decades of trophies from local firefighters and athletic teams. The oriel window in the tower offers a grand view down Sophie Street, against a backdrop of distant blue hills. In her detailed survey of Michigan's historic architecture, Buildings of Michigan, Kathryn Eckert writes, "The building demonstrates the artistic ability of a very interesting Ironwood architect [N. Albert Nelson]. . . . He studied architecture by correspondence with a technical school in Sweden, from which he emigrated, and learned through on-the-job experience." At the head of Sophie, the main street. City Hall is wheelchair-accessible on main floor & lower-level library. Use east side door.

The route from City Hall to Bluff Valley Park is the perfect backdrop for a great American institution not so often seen anymore: a large, enthusiastic drum and bugle corps, Marty's Goldenaires. Their longtime drum major is none other than the amazingly energetic Rich Brown. He had been the Western Upper Peninsula 's popular state Democratic legislator for six years, and then became the state legislature's clerk. To see him, as drum major, strutting and leaning waaaay back, it's hard to believe he's about 50 years old. The Goldenaires provide the grand finale of Bessemer's July 4 parade, leading to the park and fireworks. They add verve to parades throughout the U.P.
A few years ago empty storefronts and vacant lots set the tone for most of Sophie Street except for Abelman Clothing. Today, however, the Downtown Development Authority has teamed up with some energetic rehabbers to make it a livelier place. Here are downtown highlights, arranged from U.S. 2 south.
■ ABELMAN CLOTHING is a one-stop shop for quality footwear, skiwear, and clothing for men, women, children, and junior girls. Brand names like Columbia, Carhartt, Woolrich, Red Wing, and Merrill have enabled Abelman's to make the transition from old-fashioned dry goods store to a current destination. Aspects of the old building remain, such as the original tin ceiling and wood floors. Abe Abelman founded the store in 1887. He carried his pack and peddled from Bessemer to Chicago, bought new stock, and peddled back. 327 S. Sophie. (906) 663-4411. Open Mon-Thurs 9-5 Central, Fri 9-6:30, Sat 9-5. Wheelchair access: men's side. 3 steps with store assistance to women's side.
■ At the BESSEMER AREA HERITAGE CENTER the Bessemer Area Historical Society has renovated the old White Birch Tavern. The center focuses on what made the Bessemer area prosper: mining and logging. The museum is partitioned various sections: business, schools, mining and logging, farming, fashion, and domestic life. The Gogebic Range Genealogical Society (GogebicRoots.com) is also headquartered here. Its genealogists are happy to do research for Gogebic descendants outside the area. For a good street map of Bessemer, historical photos, and a history of the town written in 1888, check out the Bessemer Area Historical Society's outstanding website, http//Xbessemerhistoricalsociety.com 301 S. Sophie next to City Hall. Museum open Memorial Day thru Labor Day, Fri & Sat 10-2 Central Time and by appointment. (Call 906-667-0743 or 663-4091). Wheelchair-accessible.
The BESSEMER AREA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (906-663-0026) is in the same building.

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