Au Train Lodgings

AU TRAIN LAKE B&B
(510) 919-0688
Behind the Paulson House (a 1884 log house of Swedish construction), the one-bedroom Museum Cottage sits back of a small wildflower garden. The vintage knotty-pine paneling and fireplace surrounded by tiles give it a warm, cozy, even romantic feeling. So do the antique furnishings (including a four-poster bed) and accessories, and Oriental carpets. Cable TV. There are a full kitchen (the cottage is not a bed and breakfast), a front porch, and many extras, seen and explained on their website. $700/week, $125/day (2-day minimum), May thru Sept.
   Some rooms of the two-story 3-bedroom B&B, of more contemporary design, have gorgeous views looking out onto Paulson Pond. Rates around $125. The common area and deck are wonderful. Interesting furnishings and accessories are similar to those in the Museum Cottage: antiques, art, quilts, Oriental carpets. Cable TV. See website for interior photos. Sunrises over Au Train Lake, sunsets over the pond. Generous gourmet breakfasts. Outside smoking area. Innkeeper Susan Larsen aims to be super-green and super-local. The B&B is closed for renovations during 2012.
   The log house was constructed by Swedish immigrant Charles Paulson and friends for his family. Not too terribly long ago, it was the anchor of the Avery Studio's pioneer crafts museum. More recently, B&B owner Susan Larsen has furnished it as a period museum and recreated the schoolroom that was once upstairs. (As of 2012 it is not open to the public.)

ROCK RIVER BEACH RESORT
(906) 892-8112
Right where the Rock River tumbles into Lake Superior, a charming waterwheel catches the eye of most every motorist on the way to Marquette. It's part of this trim little resort. The 8 cottages, the little dam, and the original waterwheel date from the 1920s. But the resort's origins go back decades before that. The great-grandfather of the present owner, as a young man, rowed down from Marquette to work for his uncle, a lumberman who was cutting the area's white pine.
The young man clerked in his uncle's store in the village of Rock River and decided that some day, when he had a chance, he would live at the Rock River mouth. He fulfilled his dream when he built these summer rental cottages for certain residents of Munising and Marquette. The dam and waterwheel still generate power for its electric lights, and now for appliances. His son-in-law Byron Braamse continued the picturesque landscaping tradition with stonework. Byron and grandson Jack carried on the picturesque look with their own stone embellishments. Jack's late brother Bill did the mechanical and design work.
Today the 2-bedroom knotty pine housekeeping cottages are mostly booked in summer by repeat weekly guests, but available from late April through early June and again from September into November. They sleep 2 to 8 and currently rent for around $400 a week plus natural gas, or around $75 a night. There's a two-night minimum. These are simple but comfortable getaways, nothing fancy, tastefully furnished with microwaves but without TV. Four have stone fireplaces. Six cottages are within earshot of highway noise, depending on the sound of waves on Lake Superior. "The patio," built on the foundation of a house that burned, is a gathering place with rustic chairs where guests watch the sun set. One side of the beach is sandy with a few pebbles, the other stony. In good weather it's possible to canoe out to Au Train Island, 3/4 miles out, and see the interesting sandstone. The resort's location makes for a low horizon looking north—a bid, dark sky, ideal for getting a good look at the northern lights when they might be out.

NORTHWOODS RESORT
(906) 892-8114
17 well-kept housekeeping cottages are either near a small, sandy beach on Au Train Lake or in a heavily wooded area across the road. The grounds slope gently to the lake, with a small beach and swimming dock. Nightly bonfires are held on the beach, weather permitting. There's a Tuesday potluck in July & August. The resort rents boats, motors, canoes, and kayaks—plus duck blinds in season, and in winter snowmobiles. The sauna is fired up nightly—a hit with kids. Trails go back into national forest land—an hour's hike along the winding Au Train River. All cottages have picnic areas with grills. Many have decks. Bedrooms vary from 1 to 5. Cable TV and WiFi internet. Courtesy phone in laundry. Typical weekly rates in season $485-$1,000. Nightly rates in off-season typically $80-$200. Near a main snowmobile trail.

COLEMAN'S PARADISE RESORT
(906) 892-8390; exploringthenorth.com/colemans/resort
Seven housekeeping cabins are widely spaced across the lawn behind the owners' house—actually an early resort lodge—-which overlooks Au Train Lake. This homey resort is up on a hill, so access to the dock and beach is downhill, then down some stairs. A large, very pleasant deck with many chairs is perched up. It takes in the sunrise view across the lake. (Some early-risers are out for the occasion.) A bonfire pit is nearby. Beneath the deck is a walkout game room. There's room on the spacious grounds for a playground and volleyball, badminton, horseshoes, and basketball. Boats and motors can be rented, and there's a bait shop on the premises.
   Cabins vary in size. All have complete kitchens and coffeemakers. Cabins have at least distant lake views. Two have 3 bedrooms with fireplaces and can accommodate up to 8. Rates begin at $400/week, or $70 a day in off seasons. Summer rentals are by the week and usually booked up. In spring, fall, and in winter there's at least a two-night minimum.

DANA'S LAKESIDE RESORT
(906) 892-8333
Chicago transplants Amy and Kevin Hersted came north to this 8-cabin Au Train Lake resort and put their energy into it. The resort caters to families with children in summer. The 4 Hersted children enjoy playing with guests' children. In fact, lines between hosts and guests blur here. We found a swarm of kids running around while a grandfather helped out with playground repairs. Here 6 cottages are up on the hill above the small sandy beach and dock, with lake views. Two cabins are off to the side. In back the play area takes center stage: a really nice shuffleboard & basketball courts, badminton, tetherball, carpetball, and play equipment. The rec building has a pool table, ping pong, arcade video games and air hockey, a washer and drier, and lending library Amy has assembled from yard sales. Board games and puzzles are loaned out at the office.
   All cabins have full kitchens and dining areas. Each has a picnic table and charcoal grill. Half have microwaves. Most have knotty-pine interiors and sofa sleepers with coordinating easy chairs. Each cabin has cable TV hookups, but bring your own TV! This arrangement is a compromise between families who want to avoid TV altogether, and anglers who want TV weather reports. Guests can use office phone. Weekly rates for 4 people in the 6 two-bedroom cabins: $465 to $490. The two three-bedroom cottages for six people are $610. Weekly rentals from mid-June through Labor Day. Otherwise, there's a two-day minimum, at $59 to $78 a day.
   A 14' boat comes with each cabin, with only one mooring per cabin unless you rent a boat here. In order to use a boat, guests must bring a motor or rent one here. There's no charge to borrow the pedal boat, canoes, or kayaks (2 are for 2 people, 4 are singles).

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